Dual Port MSA Millennium

Are you a lucky drone with an MSA Millennium? Want to convert it to twin inlet ports for a better aesthetic? Load the following program:

Obtain the following MSA parts:

  1. MSA Part 10007388 (air deflector)
  2. MSA Part 10007994 (inlet valve body)
  3. MSA Part 10007421 (inlet valve disc)
    Note: my air deflector came with the valve disc fitted already so you may not need this.

The links above take you to a US retailer. If you are outside the US you will need to use a service like Stackry to mail forward but the costs aren’t particularly high.

You will also need a circlip plier (bent pliers) to undo the blanking plug, although you might be able to get away with two screwdrivers.

Parts required

First step is to remove the retaining ring and the blanking plug underneath the ring:

Use circlip pliers to undo the ring
Remove the blanking plug

You can now fit the new valve body by push-fitting from the outside:

Push fit the new valve body

The deflector assembly now locates on the centre hole of the valve body, from the inside (make sure the valve disc is on first). You can look at the existing one on the other side to get the right orientation.

Valve disc showing from the inside
Deflector assembly from the inside

Single sided latex chlorination

There are plenty of guides for this on the internet, although most focus on the two-sided process, and I was also given some great advice on Twitter but wanted to document things as an aide-memoire and I hope it helps you too.

Why chlorinate latex clothing?

I don’t own that many pieces of chlorinated latex, but they have their use! Chlorinating the latex reduces the “stickiness” but at the expense of reducing the lovely smell, making it feel thicker/more brittle and reducing the shine.

So, chlorinated latex is easier to put on, but doesn’t look as good – the solution, only chlorinate the inside surface!

Single side on the left, both sides on the right.

The process

CAUTION: chlorine is produced in the process which is seriously harmful to your eyes and lungs and you must wear suitable protection in a well ventilated space.

You will need:

  1. 2 plastic buckets, 10L in volume
  2. 10% hydrochloric acid
  3. 14% sodium hypochlorite solution
  4. Sodium carbonate powder/granules
  5. Eye protection (goggles)
  6. Respirator suitable for acid gases, eg 3M 60926
  7. Rubber or nitrile gloves
  8. Apron or disposable clothing
  9. Rubber boots


The following is for a full catsuit, halve the quantities if you are just doing a single T shirt.

  1. Prepare the latex garment
    1. Wash and dry the latex thoroughly, any talc or oil residue will interfere with the process.
    2. If you are single-sided chlorinating absolutely cover the outside surface with silicone oil/lube. Make sure it is a thick layer and fully covers all of the outside.
    3. Turn it inside out and clean the inside again, removing any trace of the silicone (just leave the silicone on the outside, which is now inside). You might find Bostik No. 4 latex cleaner helpful here.
    4. You can try taping up the openings, but these will come undone anyway, so I wouldn’t bother.
  2. Wear your protection.
  3. Add 10L of water to each bucket – one will be for the reaction, the other for washing.
  4. Add 150ml of sodium hypochlorite to the first bucket and mix well.
  5. Add the garment and wet fully.
  6. Add 150ml of hydrochloric acid. This will produce chlorine gas!
  7. Turn the garment around in the chlorine water (and turn inside and out if doing both sides) for 1-2 mins for a T shirt, 3 – 4 mins for a full suit.
  8. Place the latex into the second bucket and turn over and inside out to wash off the solution.
  9. Add sodium carbonate to the first bucket to neutralise the acid, until it stops fizzing. You can now dispose of it down a drain.
  10. Wash the latex in detergent several times as soon as you can to reduce the chlorine smell, and leave to dry,

If you are single-side chlorinating, hopefully the silicone oil will have formed a barrier and prevented the reaction from occurring and you are left with a slippy inner surface but lovely and shiny outer one. Win win!

Drone LED Mask

A very quick write up which is more a bill of materials than a how-to, as it’s that easy!

The basis of this is an LED face mask as this includes a flexible LED matrix and a companion mobile app to add text and patterns etc.

The one I bought was described on ebay as “LED Programmable Face Mask Light Up Rechargeable Face Cover Facial Protector” – there are lots of similar ones, make sure you try and get this type (App version not button). The companion mobile app is called “Shining Glasses” (there is a pair of sunglasses in a similar style which may work in a pinch but are more expensive).

Once you have your thing, just cut it out of the fabric face mask with scissors.

The MSA has a tinted outsert which I use to simply trap the LED matrix. No gluing, everything is reversible with some velcro wire wraps.

What I decided to do was cut off the connectors between LEDs and battery so I could extend them and then thread these longer, black, wires through to the back of my MSA mask, so some soldering and heat shrink required. You could probably clip the pack onto the head harness straps if you wanted to and avoid the soldering.

In the end I took the battery pack out of its little case and fitted it into the pull-on loop on the back of the MSA’s head harness for neatness. You can still get at the button / charge port easily.

That’s it!

The Poppers Machine

Despite looking like a vintage car radio, this has been an interest of mine in building for a while but with the 3D printer I’ve finally been able finish it.

I know I’ve often given more detailed kink DIY instructions (like for the Fuck Face) but this is one device that’s properly dangerous so I’m going to give a vague overview only. If you know what you’re doing you’ll be able to figure out the rest, but I will not be responsible for my crappy code at least :)

Here’s the mode of operation:

  1. A Raspberry Pi is used for reading the inputs, driving the display, and controlling the air pump.
  2. Separate power supplies are used on the air pump and the lower voltage Pi sides.
  3. The air pump itself pushes outside air through the glass bottle containing a pad soaked in poppers then up through another tube into a gas mask.
  4. The dials control how long the pump runs for, and the interval between those runs.

Parts list:

  1. Raspberry Pi (I used a Pi Zero W for space and cheapness)
  2. Rotary encoders for the knobs
  3. Relay for switching the power to the air pump
  4. LED (plus 100ohm current limiting resistor) in parallel with the air pump power as a fail safe indicator
  5. Adafruit 16×2 LCD display
  6. Customised enclosure with vents
  7. Various USB sockets, plugs, jumpers, and headers for wiring things together
  8. 4mm black silicone tube
  9. 4mm stainless steel bulkhead barb tube connectors
  10. Black coated tube clip
  11. USB aquarium air pump
  12. Glass bulb and bits cannibalised from a manual poppers pump
  13. 3D printed NATO gas mask to anaesthetic / silicone tube adapter

As far as the code logic goes:

  1. There are two python scripts that run on startup, one is a ‘server’ that reads the knob positions, updates the display, and the sends the parameters via a TCP message queue (zmq) to the ‘client’ script.
  2. The client polls the message queues (one for each knob) and keeps track of the various delays and intervals required, and switches the relay on (via GPIO) when needed.

This machine is extremely dangerous and must never be used solo.

What Are You?

I should prefix this with: does it matter?

But perhaps sometimes I need to explain what I am, although maybe it’s more about understanding myself than anything. I was asked recently “what do I go by?” and I really struggled to find an answer.

One of my greatest kink inspirations (kink-spirations?) is Cam Damage and Reflective Desire and seeing them for the first time awakened something in me. It’s perfectly ok to want to be an anonymous rubber drone some of the time, and at others, a debauched piss-whore, or a fuzzy-toppy-muscle-boy, or whatever else mood I’m in.

When I was a teenager, I found other boys was where I had my main attraction (although I did have a girlfriend) but could never do anything about it until I was older. I was also clearly, looking back, an utter pervert (searching in newsgroups, yes, I am that old, for ‘alt.sex.watersports’ expecting to find cute guys in wetsuits and finding something else entirely, which wasn’t a turn off).

Later in life I thought ‘bi’ was a more appropriate label, but realistically my attraction there was really only to kink I think: a pivotal moment was being in a grope box at Torture Garden and having many totally unknown hands touch every part of me was… mind blowing.

These days, if we want or need to label, I would describe myself as a pan sexual enby. I have a long term male partner but enjoy playing with boys, girls, trans guys and girls, non-binaries, and gender fluid folks. The more the merrier as far as I’m concerned, just as long as it’s kinky.

So what do you call me? Just Loki is fine.

Kink DIY – 3D Printing

This is a new one for me, but using a 3D printer to conjure new pervertables out of thin air is extremely enjoyable.

I’m going to add a couple of links and files here but this may end up growing over time I as I think it opens up whole new opportunities for fun!

S10 gas mask blackout caps

I have a pair of original flash lenses with some foamboard inserts for complete blackout, but I find they’re extremely tricky to get on during a scene – you end up squishing the poor sub’s face!

So these are great, they click on from the outside but don’t need a huge amount of force to do so and are a lot cheaper to print than buying original parts. I didn’t need to modify them at all, just print away.


Gas mask restrictor valve

This is an adjustable inlet valve – obviously not something to use on your own. I’ve seen a few of these for sale that set you back like £20. I took a design and modified it so that it’s a lot easier to use with slippery or gloved hands, and doesn’t need any supports adding for printing.

It’s printed in two parts, the main body and then the inlet portion. They just press-snap together when you’re done. I used 40% infill for the thinner valve portion, 20% for the main body.

The STLs are here:
main body
inlet valve (top)

NATO gas mask to anaesthetic connector

This is used in my poppers machine, as it has a 4.9mm hole in the side as the injection port.


Fetishak Backpack Gas Mask Hose Connector

Bit of a niche one this, but as the company no longer exists, if you’ve broken yours these may help you out.

Inner STL
Outer STL

Frustrations in chastity

Although I have now received the belt back, I am reinstating this post because I have heard from several others with similar stories so I am concerned my experience was not a one off.

I want to be clear upfront about the purpose of writing this up here, and that is to document the extraordinary number of attempts to resolve this issue in private. I fully and absolutely understand the challenges the last year has brought, particularly to small manufacturers. If I were told that this repair was going to have taken a year, I still would have done it, but after many emails and twitter messages I felt forced into going public.

With the pre-amble out the way then, what’s the problem? In 2020, after a couple of years at trying to get in touch with Carrara, I managed to get an online appointment with them to arrange an adjustment to the size of my belt.

What follows is a record of all my interactions since then trying to get it back.

26/5/2020 – Initial online chat and measuring, I am told it is not very complicated and will “only take a few days”.
5/6/2020 – Belt arrives in Austria
7/7/2020 – Gentle enquiry as to progress, told need to order some material for the hinges.
10/8/2020 – Follow up again, told the workshop needed a new floor and to reinstall the welder. My belt will be “the first thing done”
18/9/2020 – “Belt was finished yesterday”, just needs the welding ground back and a new liner.
4/11/2020 – “Forgot all about it” “the parcel is still in the office”.
10/12/2020 – “Had to buy a new welding machine”
4/1/2021 – Chased via Twitter DM, no reply.
14/1/2021 – Chased via Twitter DM, no reply.
19/1/2021 – Chased via email, “have had flu”
31/3/2021 – Chased via email, no reply.
12/4/2021 – Chased via email: has been ill, will ship this week! Lots of apologies.
27/4/2021 – Chased via email, no reply
22/5/2021 – I publish this post
22/5/2021 – Twitter reply saying it will ‘ship this week’
4//6/2021 – I tweet ‘still nothing’
22/6/2021 – I get an email saying it has shipped with a tracking number
2/7/2021 – The tracking number shows the postal service is still waiting for the parcel from the sender, I chase.
10/7/2021 – I chase again, I’m told they will follow up with the post office on the 12th

20/7/2021 – Belt finally arrives!

Super Heavy Straight Jacket

I recently sold a moderately heavy SJ I bought from RubAddicition some years ago, having grown out of it, and I’d been on the hunt for a replacement ever since.

So here it is, made by RubberWerk, this is 3mm thick latex, weighing in at 10kg (over 20lbs) on its own, and add in the StudioGum helmet at another 2kg and it makes for one intense ride.

The stupidest / hottest thing I’ve ever done

This is a story, with some true bits, and some embellishment. I hope you enjoy. Please always play safe and let people know where you are and when you’re due back.

We had been corresponding online for a while and I’d finally plucked up the courage to arrange a session with him. We were in the same town, and not far from each other, but I was very inexperienced. I’d never even set foot in any kind of dungeon before and the only gear I owned was confined to some cheap white cotton rope.

He offered me a one time deal, valid for that first play date only: let yourself in, tie yourself up, don’t see him until the end.

It was a rediculous offer. I’d never met him, but the pages of hot guys tied up in the same way on his website was too much to resist. I said yes. Stupid, stupid Loki.

The day came, and I had his address. I had to let myself in at a precise time and found myself wondering the streets outside for an hour because I was early, all the time thinking both THIS IS AMAZING but also THIS IS SO STUPID. I’ve never met him, we’ve never even spoken, just messaged online, no one else knows where I am, and it’s before the days of smartphones so I can’t even be tracked. FUCK. WHAT AM I DOING?

SHITSHITSHIT. It’s time. Now or never. Decide. I find myself halfway to the door before I’ve even had time to think. Guess my dick is doing the talking now.

He’s given me the location of the front door key underneath a specific flower pot (how original), but nothing more. I find it. I glance at my watch, it clicks over to the hour exactly and I turn the key. I step inside and close the door behind me. And exhale…

I see a sheet of paper on the floor:


Take off all your clothes. Fold them neatly on the floor. Step into the playroom to your left and you’ll find further instructions.

Follow them exactly.

I take off everything. I suddenly feel incredibly vulnerable.

But I find I need a piss. I see the bathroom door is open down the hall. This is ok isn’t it? Is he here? Is he watching? OK, well, nervous wee time it is. As I proceed down the hall I pass the open door to the playroom, and I stop briefly to look in. It’s all dark, with a single spotlight illuminating a metal chair in the middle. It’s just as I’d hoped and my dick twitches.

I quickly use the toilet, and head back to the playroom, take a breath, and step in towards the chair. I see a pile of gear, and some more instructions:

Sit on the chair.

Cuff your feet to the chair legs.

Put in the earplugs, then the hood.

Cuff your hands behind you through the bars in the back of the chair.

The ankle cuffs are leather straps with a simple buckle and they go on easily. As I bend down to cinch them up, I notice I have a huge erection that pokes me in the stomach. Hi there. Still in charge I see.

I roll the foam earplugs up and stuff them in. Sounds are dulled, and I notice how quickly my heart is now racing.

I pull the leather hood on. It just has a mouth opening, but it smells like nothing I’ve tried before. Pure bondage. All the guys that have been in it before. It’s heaven. I fumble with the laces – I’ve never done this before – and it feels like an age to get it done all the way up. I tug on the ends of the laces and feel the hood envelop my head, the last traces of light disappear, and the remaining ambient noise shut off.

I click the handcuffs on one wrist, reach behind me and feel for the other end. I pause. This is it. Once I do this up, I’m stuck here, no going back. Click.

I sit there in the still darkness. All I can hear is my own heartbeat, and I can feel my dick twitch in time with it.

God this is so stupid. What have I done.

How long have I been here now? A minute feels like an hour.

Still I wait. My breathing is rapid in anticipation. I can’t hear anything. All I see is black. Come on…

Suddenly a hand is exploring my body and I gasp. The hand rubs my hooded head to calm me down, then moves to my dick. The gasp becomes a moan.

My leg straps are released, and the handcuffs undone, I’m pulled up out of the chair and pushed up against the cold steel scaffolding bars. I wince, but leather straps are quickly applied to keep me in place. My cock and balls are bound up with some kind of rope, which makes me extremely sensitive. I feel lube applied, and suddenly I’m in a different plane of horniness entirely.

The next few hours are a blur and no text can describe really describe them, except to say that at the end, the hood is pulled off and I see the sweaty, lubey, spunky mess of myself in the mirror. I am briefly disgusted by myself, then I look over and catch the face of my – until now – unseen captor, and he smiles.

DIY Breathplay Manifold

IMPORTANT: Breath control is dangerous even in experienced hands, but even more so solo. NEVER use a device such as this on your own.

I haven’t posted this bit of DIY before as I’m in two minds about giving people such potentially dangerous tools, but then it’s just some bits of pipework so it’s hardly an immense secret. That said, although it’s simple, this is for people that know what they’re doing and are looking for something to make play easier and safer.

The idea of this build is to give you an idea of what I made as a framework to customise for yourself; there’s no right or wrong setup although there are some fundamentals.

The main components are half-inch PVC pipe and fittings. I’ve used:

  • 90 degree Ts
  • Plain sockets (to provide a female connector for the poppers vial and for the gas mask hoses)
  • Ball valves

In my case everything is solvent welded together (you just wipe some gunk in the pipe, push, wait a minute, and it’s stuck forever) but you can get screw fit. The pipe can be sawn to the right length but for a couple of quid you can get cutters which make it super easy.

I’ve used grey half-inch pipe throughout but use whatever colour you like. If you’re in the UK then plasticpipeshop.co.uk will supply your needs.

As far as kink components go:


Be aware that there is a quarter turn between full on and off, so precise dialling of (eg) poppers can be tricky, but it should be ok for most needs.

Gas mask connectors

If you attach a socket (i.e. female to female) this will give you a slightly larger outside diameter which will enable you to attach a standard 40mm gas mask hose. I used the type that has a clip fitting so I could remove one end and then a stainless steel jubilee clip to tighten it on.

I actually have both a male and female end for flexibility but the male end (the one on the far left in the picture above) along with an extension is probably the one you’ll use 90% of the time to connect to another gas mask.


For this, I have a piece of 20mm outside diameter clear, flexible, PVC tube with a small hole in the side push-fitted to a socket. The poppers then sit in a (delightfully-named) bijou bottle. Open the valve and air is drawn through. By juggling the main inlet valve and the poppers-section valve you can change the concentration.

I use a little bit of hockey tape (the kind for shins, not sticks – incidentally this is perfect for sealing vac beds too as it doesn’t damage rubber) to improve the fit of the clear tube into the socket if I need to.

Rebreather bag

The same setup as for the poppers (20mm clear PVC flexible tube) works to push fit in a regular anaesthetic bag.


With the same hockey tape, I’ve found a nitrous cracker fits into the inlet valve quite nicely. In hindsight I would have added a valve to the main exhaust too, so that I could close everything, fill the rebreather bag with nitrous, attach my victim and then allow it out as I wanted.

40mm to 20mm conversion

You might want to go from 40mm (gas mask) to 20mm (standard anaesthetic). You can either do this using the rebreather bag setup, or I have a converter I found somewhere once but can no longer find.

Extra caution

If you have a very long hose between the setup and gas mask, be aware of tidal volume if you are rebreathing (i.e. the lung volume matches the total volume of all the tubes and so on).

I am deliberately not covering closed-circuits as that needs CO2 absorption, valves and other stuff that’s very complex and frankly dangerous.

Visit a professional if this is your kink.

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