Rubber Doll Suits

This is not an exhaustive guide but is a good starting point if you are interested in expressing your inner dolly self. I hope this post will be updated over time as other makers emerge.

Firstly, the assumption here is that you are wanting to take a flat(ter) chest and augment the breast area and constrict the waist. I am absolutely not saying this is the only way – many drones go for a more androgynous look for example – but I like to feel the bounce and overemphasise the hourglass figure in a hyper-femme look. I am non binary and a large part of that for me is being able to “take off” one gender and put on another.

Many female-cut catsuits have a tendency to flatten the chest; although they have extra space cut for boobs the constriction of the latex will still de-emphasise that area. If this is what you are after, then you have a lot of choice in fit, designs, and makers.

However, the “big boob” suit is designed to augment and emphasise the chest, usually with silicone breast forms, although inflatable boobs are also available.

Silicone suits, chest plates and breast forms

If you are wanting to give yourself a more femme figure, especially the chest, then you have a few options before you choose your latex second skin.

Some folks choose a full silicone body suit. There are many different makers available. I have found the suits to be extremely difficult to get into, expensive, and tear easily. If you are wearing a full latex catsuit on top then you probably don’t need to go this route, but if you want to wear more revealing outfits then it’s maybe more useful.

A silicone chest plate is kinda like a binder or sports bra, but with the boobs attached. The boobs can either be filled with cotton (lighter) or silicone (heavier but with a realistic bounce), and come in lots of different sizes of course. Again, there are lots of makers, but I have one from Dokier (eBay or Ali) and I’m actually quite impressed with it and how easily it is to get into. An advantage is that the chest plate will hold the boobs into position and you can then go choose any female-cut of suit, or mini dress, or whatever you like.

Individual breast forms are more commonly used with the big boob suits. These are just silicone separates and are easily available. I have a curved asymmetric pair from Red Rose.

Latex catsuits

Let’s deal with the elephant in the room. Fantastic Rubber were/are the best fitting and best engineered big boob suits but I can no longer recommend them due to the company’s owner. Maybe in time this changes but for now, no matter how good they are, it’s a red line for me. I still wear mine but in a gender fuck-you kinda way. The reason the suits are so good is that they have a dedicated pocket for the boobs, and a halter that goes around the neck which keeps them in a natural position.

Your next best option is Simon O’s big boob suits (male and female cuts). These do come with E cups as the minimum size, and unfortunately are in off the peg sizing only, no made-to-measure (as far as I know). So for me, they don’t quite fit right.

If you prefer Libidex then they provide male suits with breast form pockets, although you need to source your own separately and give them the sizing. The big disadvantage for me is that the pockets are simply open at the back so the breast forms can move around. If they’re combined with a corset and harness then this may not be a major issue for you though.

I’d love Kink Engineering to offer a big boob suit one day!


A quick list of extra bits you might consider to hyper-femme your outfit:

Hypno drone

A fun session with VR goggles showing sissy hypnosis, inescapable vibrator, and mind-enhancing gasses.


Sometimes a colour is just a colour…

Latex Dominatrix

A recent self-shoot with the stereotypical HW heavy corset and MSA.

Rubber Dolls

I know it’s perhaps not been everyone’s thing but I do enjoy occasionally letting out my rubber doll side. I’ve had huge inspiration and help particularly from Miss Velour in developing my persona; which incidentally has really helped me understand my enby-ness in “normal” life. Kink really can be life affirming.

As I now have my outfit complete I thought I would drop some of my favourite dolly pictures here.

Featured are:

Dual Port MSA Millennium

Are you a lucky drone with an MSA Millennium? Want to convert it to twin inlet ports for a better aesthetic? Load the following program:

Obtain the following MSA parts:

  1. MSA Part 10007388 (air deflector)
  2. MSA Part 10007994 (inlet valve body)
  3. MSA Part 10007421 (inlet valve disc)
    Note: my air deflector came with the valve disc fitted already so you may not need this.

The links above take you to a US retailer. If you are outside the US you will need to use a service like Stackry to mail forward but the costs aren’t particularly high.

You will also need a circlip plier (bent pliers) to undo the blanking plug, although you might be able to get away with two screwdrivers.

Parts required

First step is to remove the retaining ring and the blanking plug underneath the ring:

Use circlip pliers to undo the ring
Remove the blanking plug

You can now fit the new valve body by push-fitting from the outside:

Push fit the new valve body

The deflector assembly now locates on the centre hole of the valve body, from the inside (make sure the valve disc is on first). You can look at the existing one on the other side to get the right orientation.

Valve disc showing from the inside
Deflector assembly from the inside

Single sided latex chlorination

There are plenty of guides for this on the internet, although most focus on the two-sided process, and I was also given some great advice on Twitter but wanted to document things as an aide-memoire and I hope it helps you too.

Why chlorinate latex clothing?

I don’t own that many pieces of chlorinated latex, but they have their use! Chlorinating the latex reduces the “stickiness” but at the expense of reducing the lovely smell, making it feel thicker/more brittle and reducing the shine.

So, chlorinated latex is easier to put on, but doesn’t look as good – the solution, only chlorinate the inside surface!

Single side on the left, both sides on the right.

The process

CAUTION: chlorine is produced in the process which is seriously harmful to your eyes and lungs and you must wear suitable protection in a well ventilated space.

You will need:

  1. 2 plastic buckets, 10L in volume
  2. 10% hydrochloric acid
  3. 14% sodium hypochlorite solution
  4. Sodium carbonate powder/granules
  5. Eye protection (goggles)
  6. Respirator suitable for acid gases, eg 3M 60926
  7. Rubber or nitrile gloves
  8. Apron or disposable clothing
  9. Rubber boots


The following is for a full catsuit, halve the quantities if you are just doing a single T shirt.

  1. Prepare the latex garment
    1. Wash and dry the latex thoroughly, any talc or oil residue will interfere with the process.
    2. If you are single-sided chlorinating absolutely cover the outside surface with silicone oil/lube. Make sure it is a thick layer and fully covers all of the outside.
    3. Turn it inside out and clean the inside again, removing any trace of the silicone (just leave the silicone on the outside, which is now inside). You might find Bostik No. 4 latex cleaner helpful here.
    4. You can try taping up the openings, but these will come undone anyway, so I wouldn’t bother.
  2. Wear your protection.
  3. Add 10L of water to each bucket – one will be for the reaction, the other for washing.
  4. Add 150ml of sodium hypochlorite to the first bucket and mix well.
  5. Add the garment and wet fully.
  6. Add 150ml of hydrochloric acid. This will produce chlorine gas!
  7. Turn the garment around in the chlorine water (and turn inside and out if doing both sides) for 1-2 mins for a T shirt, 3 – 4 mins for a full suit.
  8. Place the latex into the second bucket and turn over and inside out to wash off the solution.
  9. Add sodium carbonate to the first bucket to neutralise the acid, until it stops fizzing. You can now dispose of it down a drain.
  10. Wash the latex in detergent several times as soon as you can to reduce the chlorine smell, and leave to dry,

If you are single-side chlorinating, hopefully the silicone oil will have formed a barrier and prevented the reaction from occurring and you are left with a slippy inner surface but lovely and shiny outer one. Win win!

Drone LED Mask

A very quick write up which is more a bill of materials than a how-to, as it’s that easy!

The basis of this is an LED face mask as this includes a flexible LED matrix and a companion mobile app to add text and patterns etc.

The one I bought was described on ebay as “LED Programmable Face Mask Light Up Rechargeable Face Cover Facial Protector” – there are lots of similar ones, make sure you try and get this type (App version not button). The companion mobile app is called “Shining Glasses” (there is a pair of sunglasses in a similar style which may work in a pinch but are more expensive).

Once you have your thing, just cut it out of the fabric face mask with scissors.

The MSA has a tinted outsert which I use to simply trap the LED matrix. No gluing, everything is reversible with some velcro wire wraps.

What I decided to do was cut off the connectors between LEDs and battery so I could extend them and then thread these longer, black, wires through to the back of my MSA mask, so some soldering and heat shrink required. You could probably clip the pack onto the head harness straps if you wanted to and avoid the soldering.

In the end I took the battery pack out of its little case and fitted it into the pull-on loop on the back of the MSA’s head harness for neatness. You can still get at the button / charge port easily.

That’s it!

The Poppers Machine

Despite looking like a vintage car radio, this has been an interest of mine in building for a while but with the 3D printer I’ve finally been able finish it.

I know I’ve often given more detailed kink DIY instructions (like for the Fuck Face) but this is one device that’s properly dangerous so I’m going to give a vague overview only. If you know what you’re doing you’ll be able to figure out the rest, but I will not be responsible for my crappy code at least :)

Here’s the mode of operation:

  1. A Raspberry Pi is used for reading the inputs, driving the display, and controlling the air pump.
  2. Separate power supplies are used on the air pump and the lower voltage Pi sides.
  3. The air pump itself pushes outside air through the glass bottle containing a pad soaked in poppers then up through another tube into a gas mask.
  4. The dials control how long the pump runs for, and the interval between those runs.

Parts list:

  1. Raspberry Pi (I used a Pi Zero W for space and cheapness)
  2. Rotary encoders for the knobs
  3. Relay for switching the power to the air pump
  4. LED (plus 100ohm current limiting resistor) in parallel with the air pump power as a fail safe indicator
  5. Adafruit 16×2 LCD display
  6. Customised enclosure with vents
  7. Various USB sockets, plugs, jumpers, and headers for wiring things together
  8. 4mm black silicone tube
  9. 4mm stainless steel bulkhead barb tube connectors
  10. Black coated tube clip
  11. USB aquarium air pump
  12. Glass bulb and bits cannibalised from a manual poppers pump
  13. 3D printed NATO gas mask to anaesthetic / silicone tube adapter

As far as the code logic goes:

  1. There are two python scripts that run on startup, one is a ‘server’ that reads the knob positions, updates the display, and the sends the parameters via a TCP message queue (zmq) to the ‘client’ script.
  2. The client polls the message queues (one for each knob) and keeps track of the various delays and intervals required, and switches the relay on (via GPIO) when needed.

This machine is extremely dangerous and must never be used solo.

What Are You?

I should prefix this with: does it matter?

But perhaps sometimes I need to explain what I am, although maybe it’s more about understanding myself than anything. I was asked recently “what do I go by?” and I really struggled to find an answer.

One of my greatest kink inspirations (kink-spirations?) is Cam Damage and Reflective Desire and seeing them for the first time awakened something in me. It’s perfectly ok to want to be an anonymous rubber drone some of the time, and at others, a debauched piss-whore, or a fuzzy-toppy-muscle-boy, or whatever else mood I’m in.

When I was a teenager, I found other boys was where I had my main attraction (although I did have a girlfriend) but could never do anything about it until I was older. I was also clearly, looking back, an utter pervert (searching in newsgroups, yes, I am that old, for ‘’ expecting to find cute guys in wetsuits and finding something else entirely, which wasn’t a turn off).

Later in life I thought ‘bi’ was a more appropriate label, but realistically my attraction there was really only to kink I think: a pivotal moment was being in a grope box at Torture Garden and having many totally unknown hands touch every part of me was… mind blowing.

These days, if we want or need to label, I would describe myself as a pan sexual enby. I have a long term male partner but enjoy playing with boys, girls, trans guys and girls, non-binaries, and gender fluid folks. The more the merrier as far as I’m concerned, just as long as it’s kinky.

So what do you call me? Just Loki is fine.

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